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The other evening, we were walking in Roppongi when we were suddenly accosted by laughing, squealing group of teenage girls in costume. They handed us candy, wished us a happy Valentine's Day, and bounced down the street, still effervescing. I looked after them, delighted but nonplussed. Ah, yes, my companion explained, at Valentine's, young women wander around, giving out candy.

It's like Trick-or-treating in reverse.

Tokyo seems to take Valentine's more seriously than any other place I've seen. Lights in the trees. Floral arrangements in building foyers. And, in the Maru Biru, a Valentine's fair where every stall was handing out tiny delicious samples of truffles and bonbons that I couldn't possibly resist.

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